Borjomi is known around the world for its mineral water, sold in green bottles with a red label. But the town itself and its surroundings are far more than a spring and a bottling plant. Borjomi sits in the gorge of the Kura River, surrounded by pine forests, next to a vast nature park, and serves as the starting point for a trip to Bakuriani - a small, cozy ski and summer resort 30 km up the mountain.
These two places work well together. Borjomi offers mineral baths, walks through the park, old Romanov-era dachas, and relaxation by the river. Bakuriani offers mountain air, snow from December through March, trekking, and cycling in summer. In 3-4 days you can see both places without rushing, and return to Tbilisi with a completely different sense of what Georgia looks like beyond the capital.
In this article:
- What to see in Borjomi and the surrounding area
- Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park: routes and logistics
- How to get there from Tbilisi and what to know in advance
- Bakuriani: ski season, summer activities, where to stay
- How many days you need and how to combine the route
- Budget and FAQ
Borjomi: what kind of town it is and why people come here
Borjomi is a resort town in Samtskhe-Javakheti, 150 km from Tbilisi. It sits at an altitude of around 800 meters in the Kura gorge, surrounded by forested slopes. The climate is mild and humid: snowy in winter, cooler than Tbilisi in summer.
Borjomi's fame began in the 19th century, when Russian officers discovered the natural mineral water springs and reported them to Saint Petersburg. The Romanovs made Borjomi their Caucasian resort: they built dachas here, laid out parks, and took cures. To this day the summer residence of Mikhail Romanov still stands in the town - a wooden palace in the Moorish style surrounded by century-old trees.
Today Borjomi is a small, quiet town with two main attractions: the central park with its mineral springs, and the national park that begins right at the edge of the town.
The Central Park and mineral springs
Borjomi Central Park stretches along the Borjomula River from the town center deep into the gorge. It is not simply a green space but a historic recreational park with tree-lined alleys, benches, a small museum, and several drinking fountains dispensing mineral water.
The water in Borjomi rises from underground sources through volcanic rock, becoming saturated with carbon dioxide and mineral salts. The taste is slightly salty and alkaline, with a pronounced mineral aftertaste and noticeable carbonation. People drink it straight from the fountain or fill bottles to take away. Admission to the park is free, and the fountain is free as well.
At the far end of the main park alley there is a cable car that lifts you about 200 meters above the town. From the upper platform there are views of the gorge and the forested ridges all around. The cost of the ride up and back is about 5 GEL.
Time for the park: a leisurely 1.5-2 hour stroll with a stop at the fountain and a cable car ride.
The Romanov Palace and the historic center
A 10-minute walk from the park entrance stands the wooden palace of Mikhail Romanov - the grand duke's summer residence, built in 1892. It now houses a small museum and has been well restored. The surrounding old park is filled with ancient trees.
The historic center of Borjomi is small, but a walk through it shows what a pre-revolutionary resort town looked like: dachas with verandas, narrow streets, several churches, and the remnants of 19th-century balneological infrastructure.
Museum entrance: about 5 GEL. Time to visit: 40-60 minutes.
Sulfur baths and balneology
Borjomi mineral water is used not only for drinking but also for therapeutic baths. Several balneological establishments in town offer treatments using the mineral water.
This is aimed more at visitors who come for several days with a health-focused purpose. For a tourist with a packed itinerary, a walk through the park and a drink from the fountain is plenty. But if you plan to spend 2-3 nights in Borjomi and want the full resort experience, the balneological baths are worth your attention.
Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park: routes and logistics
Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park is one of the largest in Europe, covering more than 85,000 hectares. The park spans mountain ridges on both sides of the Lesser Caucasus: dense coniferous and deciduous forests, alpine meadows, rivers, and waterfalls.
Most tourists know Borjomi as a resort but do not realize that genuine mountain wilderness begins right behind the town, with a network of trekking routes.
Routes in the park
The national park visitor center is in the center of Borjomi, near the entrance to the central park. Here you can pick up a map, buy an entry permit (about 5 GEL), and talk to the rangers.
Day routes:
- Route to the waterfall: about 8-10 km round trip, moderate elevation gain, forest and river along the way. 4-5 hours. Recommended as a first outing for those not planning multi-day treks.
- Route to the ridge viewpoint: 12-14 km, moderate ascent, leads out to open meadows with views of the neighboring ridges. 5-6 hours.
Multi-day routes:
Several long routes cross the park and can be walked in 3-5 days with overnight stays in ranger cabins or at campsites. The routes connect Borjomi with neighboring districts and lead to several mountain lakes. Multi-day treks require registration through the visitor center and basic mountain hiking experience.
Best season for the park: May through October. In winter, snow makes most routes impassable without specialist equipment.
How to get to Borjomi from Tbilisi
Borjomi is one of the most accessible destinations for a day trip or overnight getaway from Tbilisi.
Train
A commuter train runs from Tbilisi to Borjomi. It is one of the most pleasant routes: the train passes through Gori and Khashuri, then runs along the Kura gorge.
- Journey time: about 2.5-3 hours
- Cost: 4-6 GEL
- Schedule: several departures a day; check mkd.ge for current timetables
The train arrives right in the center of Borjomi, a 10-minute walk from the central park.
Minibus
Minibuses from Tbilisi depart from Didube bus station several times a day.
- Journey time: about 2-2.5 hours
- Cost: 8-10 GEL
Car
- Distance from Tbilisi: about 155 km along the Tbilisi-Batumi highway
- Journey time: about 2 hours
- The road is in good condition and suitable for any car
Driving is more convenient if you plan to go directly to Bakuriani or make stops along the way (Gori, Uplistsikhe).
Bakuriani: a ski resort in a pine forest
Bakuriani is 30 km from Borjomi - up a winding mountain road through pine forest. The resort sits at around 1,700-2,000 meters. In winter there is snow, lifts, and ski runs. In summer there is mountain air, cycling trails, horse riding, and hiking.
This is nothing like Gudauri: Bakuriani is smaller, quieter, geared toward family holidays and less experienced skiers. There are fewer runs and no freeride terrain, but there is a distinctive atmosphere of a Soviet mountain resort that is gradually modernizing without losing its character.
Ski season in Bakuriani
Season: December through March. The highest point of the ski area is about 2,200 meters. The vertical drop on the runs is up to 500 meters.
Runs: mainly green and blue (beginner and intermediate level). Several red runs for confident skiers. For expert skiing and freeride, Gudauri is a better choice.
Lifts: a mix of chairlifts and drag lifts, being gradually upgraded. Queues at the lifts in Bakuriani are almost nonexistent even on weekends.
Day ski pass: 30-45 GEL. Equipment rental: 30-50 GEL per set.
Bakuriani in summer
In summer Bakuriani is a completely different place. Pine forest, clean mountain air, temperatures 5-7 degrees cooler than in Tbilisi. Several lifts operate in summer mode for hikers and cyclists.
Things to do in summer:
- Walks along forest trails
- Mountain bike routes
- Horse riding along dedicated trails
- Lift ride to the viewpoint
- Day hikes to lakes in the surrounding area
Bakuriani in summer is a cool and quiet retreat without ski-season crowds. A good option for anyone who wants mountain air and nature but is not planning serious trekking.
The Borjomi-Bakuriani narrow-gauge railway
One of the most unusual attractions on this route is the narrow-gauge railway that has linked Borjomi and Bakuriani since 1902. The little train crawls through forest and gorges for about 2.5-3 hours - roughly twice as long as the drive. But that is exactly what makes the journey special.
The narrow-gauge railway runs several times a week. Cost: about 1 GEL. This is not fast transport but a travel experience in itself: the carriage sways, the forest closes in outside the window, views of the gorge succeed one another - and this is one of those things in Georgia that people talk about long afterward.
Check the timetable on mkd.ge before your trip: not all services run on a regular schedule.
How to get from Borjomi to Bakuriani
By car
30 km along a paved mountain road through the forest. Journey time: 40-50 minutes. The road is passable in any car during the summer season. In winter during snowfall, four-wheel drive or winter tires are recommended.
By minibus
Minibuses from Borjomi to Bakuriani run several times a day. Journey time: about 1 hour. Cost: 5-8 GEL.
By narrow-gauge train
2.5-3 hours, several times a week, about 1 GEL. Recommended as a separate experience rather than a primary means of transport.
3-4 day itinerary: Borjomi and Bakuriani
Day 1: Borjomi
Arrive from Tbilisi by train or car. Walk through the central park, drink from the fountain, ride the cable car. In the evening, stroll through the historic center. Dinner at one of the restaurants by the river.
Day 2: National Park
Early start for a trek in Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park. The waterfall route or the ridge viewpoint route - depending on your fitness level. Return to town by evening. Visit the Romanov Palace if you missed it the day before.
Day 3: Move to Bakuriani
In the morning, take the narrow-gauge train or a minibus to Bakuriani. Check in. Ride the lift to the viewpoint (in summer) or your first day on the slopes (in winter). Evening stroll around the village.
Day 4: Bakuriani and the return journey
Activities of your choice depending on the season. After lunch, return to Borjomi and from there take the train or minibus back to Tbilisi.
Where to stay
In Borjomi
There is a wide choice of accommodation: from small guesthouses at 40-60 GEL per night to mid-range hotels at 100-200 GEL. Most good options are within walking distance of the central park.
- Guesthouses near the park: the standard format for most visitors. Breakfast is often included.
- Resort hotels with a pool: several options for those who want all-inclusive comfort.
In Bakuriani
Similar to Borjomi: guesthouses from 50-80 GEL per night including meals, and small hotels from 100 GEL. During ski season prices are higher and advance booking is essential.
What else to see along the way
The Tbilisi-Borjomi route passes through several interesting places that are easy to include in the trip.
Gori and the Stalin Museum
Gori - Stalin's hometown - is located halfway between Tbilisi and Borjomi. The Stalin Museum is one of the most thought-provoking tourist sites in Georgia: Soviet architecture, the leader's personal belongings, his armored railway carriage. Interesting regardless of how you feel about Soviet-era history.
Distance from Tbilisi: about 85 km. Museum entrance: 15-20 GEL.
Uplistsikhe: the cave city near Gori
Uplistsikhe is a cave city from the first millennium BC on the bank of the Kura, 10 km from Gori. More than 700 cave rooms - houses, halls, a theatre, a church - all carved into the rock and well preserved. One of the most interesting and least widely known sites in Georgia.
Entrance: about 7 GEL. Time to explore: 1.5-2 hours.
Approximate budget for a Borjomi-Bakuriani trip
| Expense | Amount (GEL) |
|---|---|
| Train or minibus Tbilisi - Borjomi (round trip) | 8-20 |
| Minibus Borjomi - Bakuriani (round trip) | 10-16 |
| Accommodation in Borjomi (2 nights, per person) | 80-200 |
| Accommodation in Bakuriani (1-2 nights, per person) | 60-200 |
| Food (3-4 days, mid-range) | 150-250 |
| National park entry, museums, lifts | 30-50 |
| Bakuriani ski pass (2 days, winter) | 70-90 |
| Total per person (4 days) | from 400 to 800 GEL |
Transport costs decrease when traveling in a group by car.
Best season to visit
May-June: the forest is green, the air is fresh, and there are few tourists. The national park is fully open. A good time for trekking and a leisurely look around Borjomi.
July-August: warm but cooler than Tbilisi. Peak season in Bakuriani for summer activities. All activities are available.
September-October: autumn colors in the forests of Borjomi-Kharagauli Park. An excellent period for photography and trekking. In October the upper routes begin to close due to snow.
December-March: ski season in Bakuriani. Borjomi in winter is quiet and somewhat snowy - a different atmosphere, but the park is still open for walks. The narrow-gauge railway runs.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to drink water straight from the Borjomi fountain?
Yes, the water at the drinking fountains in the Central Park is genuine Borjomi mineral water from natural springs. You can drink it on the spot or fill a bottle to take with you. The taste is noticeably different from the bottled version: richer and more carbonated.
Do I need special equipment for trekking in Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park?
For day routes, sturdy hiking boots, water, and a light jacket are sufficient. For multi-day overnight treks you will need a sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and additional gear. The visitor center in Borjomi provides advice on each route.
Is Bakuriani suitable for children?
Absolutely. Gentle green runs and dedicated beginner zones during ski season, and cycling trails, horse riding, and walks in summer. Many families with children choose Bakuriani precisely for its relaxed atmosphere.
Can Borjomi be combined with Vardzia?
Yes. Vardzia (a cave monastery) is 70 km from Borjomi along the road through Akhaltsikhe. It is easy to organize as a day trip from Borjomi by car or taxi. The route Borjomi - Akhaltsikhe - Vardzia is one of the most popular in the Samtskhe-Javakheti region.
How much time do you need in Borjomi on a quick visit?
One full day covers the highlights: the park with the drinking fountain, the cable car, the Romanov Palace, and a walk through the center. Add another day for trekking in the national park. For a proper combined trip with Bakuriani, allow at least 3-4 days.
How do you get from Borjomi to Akhaltsikhe?
Minibuses from Borjomi to Akhaltsikhe run several times a day, taking about 1 hour and costing 5-8 GEL. By car it is 50 km, about 50-60 minutes. Akhaltsikhe with Rabati Castle is a convenient additional stop on a tour of the region.
Does the Borjomi-Bakuriani narrow-gauge railway run in winter?
Yes, the train runs in winter too. Check the timetable in advance at mkd.ge: there may be fewer services in winter. A winter journey is particularly atmospheric: the forest under snow, steam rising from the little locomotive's chimney.
Borjomi and Bakuriani are a route that answers several needs at once. A health resort with a centuries-old history, untouched mountain forest right at the edge of town, and a small resort with quiet slopes - all of this is two hours from Tbilisi. Three or four days here offer something no other destination in Georgia can match: a combination of nature, history, and genuine mountain air, free from the bustle of the tourist highlights.
